Latest News

The Forum

For Sale


About the Club


Committee Members

The Steam Car Register

The Steam Car Magazine

American Steamers
US section of the site

Photo Gallery

Video Gallery


London to Brighton

Land Speed Archive

Vehicle Specifications



Website Directory


Brake Pedal, Brake Line, and Throttle Pedal Installation Fuel Line Pickup Modification

March 30, 2008
Following the directions for the brake pedal, I drilled a new hole in the pedal 12.7mm below the original hole. (Center to center, same size) Then installed the new pivot bracket. The bottom of the pedal that contacts the master cylinder plunger will most likely need to have some material removed so that there is some free play in the pedal movement. So when the floor is in place and the pedal is in the release position; it is not pushing on the master cylinder plunger, an 1/8th inch clearance is fine. I had to add a large washer to take up the space between the bracket and the pedal for better pedal stability on the pivot clevis. Then hooked up my return spring. (See Kit 3 brakes)

The throttle pedal is fairly straight forward; this is how I installed mine. On the throttle pedal there is an existing hole for a return spring; I tapped the hole to accept a 6-32 machine screw, I also drilled out the return spring bracket to fit another 6-32 machine screw. I fit the machine screws to the bracket and the pedal; this is where my return spring will mount. Fit the cable connector to the pedal and double nut, making sure the cable connector can rotate freely in the pedal. I used several washers on the pedal clevis for pedal stability. You’ll note in the pictures I used hairpin clips on the clevis pins for easier future servicing. I cut a small notch in the floorboard to allow the pedal to be installed and removed easier with the cable connector attached. Thread the cable through the connector, adjust the pedal movement, and lock with the allen bolt, install the return spring between the 2 machine screws.
3.0 Hours

March 31
You may have noticed that the rear brake flex line comes in contact with the burner flange; I chose to reroute my flex line to eliminate this problem. Using a 6” long 3/16 metric brake line with bubble flare, a pair of 3/16 tube nuts and a union, all available at your local automotive store; I cut off one end of the new brake line and installed a tube nut and double flared the end. With the bubble end of the line installed in the top hole of the Tee fitting, using a tubing bender, bend the line over and around the rear axle supporting tube to line up with the r/rear brake line. Mark this location and cut the brake line and install the other tube nut and double flare the line, join the 2 lines together with the union. Now thread the flex line into the side fitting of the Tee and adjust the flex line so as to clear any possible rubbing. Now all the brake lines are clear and away from the burner flange.

Bleeding the Brakes: Use only Dot 5 Silicone Brake Fluid,; a power vacuum brake bleeder or a hand vacuum bleeder is a must for bleeding Silicone fluid. The pump and press method will only cause the fluid to foam and not completely bleed out all the air in the system. Silicone fluid does not attract moisture like regular brake fluid, also; it won’t damage your paint should you get any on your chassis. Recheck every fitting in the brake system and make sure it is tight. Add the fluid to the reservoirs and bleed the system. Note: if you have never bled brakes, or don’t understand the importance of doing it correctly; get someone who knows to help you. This is an important safety issue, plus you can learn how to do it for the next project.
The pedal should be high and hard without any fade or pedal sinking with your foot on the pedal. Check for any leaks, correct if necessary.
2.0 Hours

Chain Installation: To make it easier; I tied a wire onto the first link and put the reversing lever into reverse. (This allows more working clearance) From the rear of the engine, feed the wire and the chain over the top of the engine sprocket and around it, to exit bellow the tensioner rod bracket. Feed the chain around the rear axle sprocket, join the ends with the Master Link. My chain was too long, and had to cut off 2 sections (1 complete link). Using a cutoff wheel, I cut the 2 peened pins flush with the connector link face and drove out the 2 pins together and removed the link from the chain. Reinstall the chain, I used Brads suggestion to paint the Master Link a bright color to help locate the link for future servicing. I painted mine Brass.
Install the tensioner assembly between the engine and the rear axle, the ball joint on the engine needs to face down and the ball joint on the rear axle needs to face up. Adjust the tensioner until you have at least 1 inch of chain deflection on the lower chain when the upper part of the chain is taught. The rod length will be about 14.5 inches, ball center to ball center.
2.0 Hours

April 1
Fuel Tank Feed Modification: This is a modification that will need to be performed to prevent a whirlpool/ vortex effect at the fuel inlet when the fuel level is at about 1/3 tank. Brad Buetlich (California) noticed his burner would go out when the fuel tank was at about 1/3 or less, and then would relight with out a problem. Apparently what happens is the burner pump suction is powerful enough to start a whirlpool/ vortex and will start to suck in air, which causes low fuel pressure and burner shut down. I came up with this cheap easy fix. You will need a ¼-18x1.5 inch brass pipe nipple, pipe cap, and a ¼-18 pipe tap. Remove the fuel tank inlet bushing and tap threads from the opposite side of the bushing. Thread the pipe nipple into the bushing tightly. Using a ¼ “ bit, drill 4 holes into the nipple equidistant and close to the end of the bushing. Install the pipe cap onto the nipple securely, grind off the hex edges as necessary to fit through the hole in the tank. Reinstall with sealant as before.
1.0 Hour

I’ve been informed that the super heater, hand pump, and piping will be shipped soon.
There will be a burner modification; I just don’t have all the facts yet.

Happy Building

Brake Pedal, Brake Line, and Throttle Pedal Installation Fuel Line Pickup Modification.
(Click on picture to enlarge)


Click here for almost complete picture

Update 2010: Modelworks are now Steam Traction World their website can be found HERE

Go to page:

Kit One and Two.

Kit Three and Four.

Kit Four B and Five.

Kit Six and Eight.

Kit Seven.

Kit Eight.

Kit Nine.

Kit Ten.

Addendum Kit Ten.

Kit Twelve.

Kit Thirteen.

Kit Fourteen.

Kit Fifteen.

Kit Sixteen.

Kit Seventeen and Eighteen.

Boiler Installation.

Burner Installation.

Leaf Spring Modification.

Engine Modification.

Brake Pedal, Brake Line, and Throttle Pedal Installation Fuel Line Pickup Modification.

Super Heater, Hand Pump, and Plumbing.

Some Final Assembly and First Time Steam Up.

Road Test and a few Modifications.

Locomobile Cylinder Drains July 2009.

The Steam Car Club of Great Britain
The World's Premier Steam Car Preservation Organisation
Contact us via email: info@steamcar.net
©The Steam Car Club of Great Britain. All Rights Reserved
Website Design by Nick Price Creatives