February 23, 2008
I had to dismantle my Likamobile a bit, as I had quite a bit put together for pictures and trial fitting. I was able to perform the engine modification with the engine in the chassis, just had to raise the chassis on jack stands so I could sit on the floor and perform the work.
Dismantle the valve train, reverse of assembly in Kit 10. If you Loctited all the bolts like I did, silly me I thought it was finished, you may have to heat up the bolts slightly in order to break down the Loctite. I used a mini torch and put the flame on the center of the bolt head for a few minutes and they all broke free rather easily. With the valve train and crank bearing removed I marked where I was to cut the old brackets. Note: tape the open water pump pipes so you don't get filings into the water pump. I used a sawzall, reciprocating saw, and a grinder to clean up the edges.
I used a propane torch to heat up the old bearing flanges to break down the retaining glue for the bearing. Once heated the bearing came out with a brass drift, clean up the parts and install into the new flanges with the retainer adhesive. I had to hone out the hole slightly for the bushing to fit the new flange. I noticed there weren't any lubrication holes in the new flange like there were in the old tabs we cut off. Using a 7/64 drill bit I drilled a lubrication hole in the center of the small boss for the valve arm and followed with a chamfer bit.
Started reassembly of the crank bearings, webs, valve train, and the connecting rod. Note: clean the old Loctite from the bolt threads before reassembly using Loctite. Hint: leave the bolts holding the bearing flanges slightly loose, install the reversing shaft and center reversing arm first, then evenly torque the crank bearing bolts into place. Reinstall the valve linkage using the original reversing arms that we got with Kit 10, no one threw them away did they.
With the modification done and the valve train reassembled I now had to retime the engine as per the instructions from Kit 10. I removed the steam chest cover and started the timing procedure, unfortunately due to the change in valve geometry I only had 2 threads of the valve shaft engaging into the valve stem. I had to install another full nut under the slide valve and use the 2 half nuts for securing on the top of the slide valve. This essentially moved the shaft into the stem another 5 threads for better thread engagement. I then set the valve opening as described in Kit 10. Installed the covers with fresh Hylomar sealer, also; I installed the valve shaft packing, if you haven't done this yet, now is the time.
I primed the steam oil pump with steam oil, I'm using Texaco Vanguard 1000, I also primed the drip oilier with Hypoid 75-140 gear oil. I did remove the foam filter in the oilier so the oil will flow easier. I use the Hypoid oil because it clings and won't get thrown off as easily as regular oil and it uses less.
The engine modification wasn't difficult, you just had to pay attention to the process, especially the valve timing. As usual the machined flanges are works of art. I continued with my Black Hammered paint scheme on the engine.
My next installment will be the installation of the boiler/ burner and its plumbing.
Click here for almost complete picture
Update 2010: Modelworks are now Steam Traction World their website can be found HERE
Go to page:
Kit One and Two.
Kit Three and Four.
Kit Four B and Five.
Kit Six and Eight.
Addendum Kit Ten.
Kit Seventeen and Eighteen.
Leaf Spring Modification.
Brake Pedal, Brake Line, and Throttle Pedal Installation
Fuel Line Pickup Modification.
Super Heater, Hand Pump, and Plumbing.
Some Final Assembly and First Time Steam Up.
Road Test and a few Modifications.
Locomobile Cylinder Drains July 2009.