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Kit Ten - Engine.

June 2, 2006
Kits 10 and 11 arrive and parts inventory checked and accounted for. I had a small shipping mishap as the tube of Loctite was crushed and there was green goo throughout the bag of parts, the fact that the parts are all individually bagged, only the bags were sticky. Lots of parts, about 220; WOW!
1.5 Hours

I chose to assemble Kit 11 first so I wouldn't have the large panels in the way and I wanted to see what the body would look like mostly completed.

June 14
I can't emphasis this enough, READ the Assembly directions and become very familiar with the parts and their locations. As MW's has already informed us in their notes you won't be performing a lot of the final assembly, as there is a problem with the piston rods and the reversing arms, the new parts will arrive later. I chose to assemble this kit now to have all parts fitting properly and to become familiar with the engine and how it will operate.
Pre fit everything! MW's states to take your time and file, fettle, and fit so all parts can be assembled with a slight amount of pressing or driving on with a mallet. If your parts won't go together now it won't go together for final assembly on the engine.
After using a die grinder to radius the tube web for the drive gear to fit inside, I started the fitting process of drive gear to the center crankshaft. This process took some time as I wanted the gear and shaft to be driven together with a rubber mallet and come apart the same way. After fitting the keyways, I Loctited them to the shaft only. I used Antiseize lubricant to make driving the parts together easier.
4.0 Hours

June 15
More fettling and prefitting; now the crank pins and center shaft to the crank webs. Make sure that you prefit the crank pins 0906 and return crank 0933. If you fit the crank pin to the web first, it is easier to hold onto the pin to fit the return crank.
The crankshaft with keys will not fit through the hole in the beam; I cut 2 notches in one side of the beam that match up with the keyways on the crankshaft. This way you won't loose the machined centering that MW's has done. Fit the drive gear and the crankshaft as per instructions. This should go quite straightforward if you fit everything previously. When assembling the crankshaft bearing cap screws I had to add a lock washer under each so the bolts would clear the drive gear. Gradually tighten these cap screws evenly or you may experience some bearing bind, if you can turn the drive gear with your finger you are good to go. I then took each cap screw out one at a time and reassembled them with the Loctite, also the setscrews for the drive gear. Assemble the web assemblies, double check the positioning as noted.
3.0 Hours

June 16
I chose to polish the connecting rods and the crosshead guide tubes. I started the piston assembly, less the rings, since I know I will be dismantling this again. Make sure you align the steam reliefs with the holes of each cylinder for LKO917 (rear cylinder cover) before marking where to clearance the main beam. I used a washer as a spacer under each nut for the packing assembly as the nuts would bottom out on the stud shoulder, cut the excess stud as instructed.
After fitting the piston assembly and the connecting rod it becomes apparent why the piston rods will be replaced, they are too short and won't allow the crank to completely rotate as the piston bottoms out in the cylinder. I backed off the piston rod about 2 threads and the crankshaft is now able to completely rotate with out collision. Note: I only snugged everything up just to see how the engine will operate; I know it will have to come apart for the new parts. Also note that the kit did not include the set screws/grub screws for the crossheads.
3.5 Hours

June 19
The main steam pipe interferes with the Reversing Bypass brackets. A slight removal of material from the brackets is required in order to provide some clearance between the pipe and brackets. Install bushings LKO0922 (Loctite) into the reverser tabs on the main beam, align the oil holes and make sure the shaft fits smoothly. I assembled the valve reversing assembly as per instructions; I used cotter pins instead of the lock pins at this point, as it will have to be dismantled again for the new parts.
Now I can see how the valve assembly operates as I rotate the crankshaft. The Kit did not include the countersink screws for the LK0930 washers to retain the Radius rods. Also; the M6 shoulder bolt for connecting the valve rod to the steam valve assembly is not included in the kit.
2.5 Hours

Kit 10 was quite challenging and I enjoyed the build, even if it's just temporary. MW's has given us a warning that they know of some problems and are in the process of rectifying them. The machine work is still at the best; now that I have the engine assembled it is truly a work of art. The parts that I say are missing, are not listed on the inventory sheet, but are shown and labeled in the ISO drawings. I don't know if MW's missed these or if they are planned for the next kit. The MW's engineers are doing an outstanding job. I chose to polish all my brass and copper pieces and quite satisfied with the visual and the mechanical aesthetics. We are now getting closer to a finished car.

Happy Building
Rick

Kit 10.

   

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Update 2010: Modelworks are now Steam Traction World their website can be found HERE

Go to page:

Kit One and Two.

Kit Three and Four.

Kit Four B and Five.

Kit Six and Eight.

Kit Seven.

Kit Eight.

Kit Nine.

Kit Ten.

Addendum Kit Ten.

Kit Twelve.

Kit Thirteen.

Kit Fourteen.

Kit Fifteen.

Kit Sixteen.

Kit Seventeen and Eighteen.

Boiler Installation.

Burner Installation.

Leaf Spring Modification.

Engine Modification.

Brake Pedal, Brake Line, and Throttle Pedal Installation Fuel Line Pickup Modification.

Super Heater, Hand Pump, and Plumbing.

Some Final Assembly and First Time Steam Up.

Road Test and a few Modifications.

Locomobile Cylinder Drains July 2009.




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