June 2, 2006
Kits 10 and 11 arrive. Check parts against the inventory list, all accounted for. Note that the Floor Bracket #LK1720 is not listed in the inventory but the attaching screws are. I pre fit the wood panels to see what would have to be trimmed and measured accordingly.
Trim wood panels to fit. I had to make the inside diameter of the Brass trim ring larger to clear the water tank neck. Sent the fuel tank, step plates and several brackets to the powder coater. I then polished the brass ring and fuel cap.
Assembly of the floorboards and cross supports, I glued and screwed this assembly together using flush head construction screws. Make sure you make relief's in the forward support to clear the bolt heads on the chassis cross bar. I decided to use nutserts in the floor board supports, along with ¼ x20 brass oval head bolts to mount the floorboards to the chassis. Since this board will be an access piece, it goes with my design of having all panels easily removed and installed for demonstration. The front floorboard cutouts for the pedals had to be lengthened about ¾" on the bottom end so the brake pedal would not be partially depressed. Also I had to cut reliefs in the bottom of this board where the front spring mount bolts come up, so the floorboard will rest on the floor supports not the spring bolts. I purchased a small brass ring pull, like the 2 in the kit, and installed it in the fuel access panel. I measured and installed the pull rings and the latches for the front body panel. I drilled and retapped the brass assembly joints for ¼ x20 studs. I mounted the joints to the body side panels with the screws and glue. Drilled my corresponding holes in the back panel and mounted it to the body with brass finishing washers and brass acorn nuts. (Same as I used for the body panels)
Dismantle the body panels and floor boards and prep for paint. I primed all the boards both sides and painted them. I used Black for the body panels and Red for the floorboards. This took several days.
Install fuel tank and assemble all the components onto the painted panels and floorboards. Install on the car. I'm pleased with the progress. The brake pedal arm had to be trimmed where it contacts the piston pin, because when the front spring is compressed it hits the pedal and will cause the brake to slightly activate. I trimmed about ¼" to obtain the clearance from the spring. Also I fabricated a pedal retainer so it is always in contact with the piston pin and not swinging freely about. (Anti-rattling) I used 2 cotter pins and a light spring. Drill a hole, slightly larger than the cotter pin diameter, just below the master cylinder in the pedal plinth and a hole in the pedal horizontal with the brake pin. Install the spring onto the cotter pins, insert cotter pins in the holes drilled and bend over the pin tabs. The spring is just strong enough to hold the pedal against the brake pin, but not strong enough to engage the master cylinder.
I found everything to fit rather well and trimming of the body panels would be expected. I assembled Kit 11 before Kit 10 so as not to have large panels taking up shop space. I'm going to wait for the lubricator to show up before I modify the bracket.
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Update 2010: Modelworks are now Steam Traction World their website can be found HERE
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Kit One and Two.
Kit Three and Four.
Kit Four B and Five.
Kit Six and Eight.
Addendum Kit Ten.
Kit Seventeen and Eighteen.
Leaf Spring Modification.
Brake Pedal, Brake Line, and Throttle Pedal Installation
Fuel Line Pickup Modification.
Super Heater, Hand Pump, and Plumbing.
Some Final Assembly and First Time Steam Up.
Road Test and a few Modifications.
Locomobile Cylinder Drains July 2009.