Kit Seven - Brakes
March 23, 2006 Kits 7 & 9 arrive. Checked parts inventory, all accounted for. Over 150 parts per kit. Wow! I'm in heaven. At this point I decided what I'm going to polish, powder coat or paint.
March 27, Pre fit the components I plan on powder coating. I had to grind the pedal pads a little smaller so the rubber pedal pads would fit evenly and securely. Drop parts off to the powder coater. I decided to polish the calipers, brake reservoirs, water pumps, and any other brass components.
March 30, Caliper assembly is pretty straight forward as described in the instruction. I used 2000 grit paper to smooth the pistons and used a brake cylinder hone to smooth the caliper body bore. Just a little at a time until the piston can slide in/ out easily. Clean all the calipers with Brake Cleaner (auto parts house). I used a caliper bolt to act as a drift to install the caliper bushings; a very light tapping is all that is required to seat the bushings. Use a light coating of grease on the caliper bolts when installing the calipers on the axles. While installing the flex brake lines I found a potential problem. The rear brakes are OK, but on the front units I found that when the steering is turned to its extreme, the brake line will kink and crush against the axle housing. As the tiller is beyond the body by almost 9", if you bring the tiller to the edge of the body as the maximum turn, the brake lines have plenty of clearance and premature line failure can be eliminated. A steering stop will need to be made to prevent this problem. I did send an e-mail to Steve Babcock at MW's explaining this problem and a solution. Steve did respond back acknowledging this potential hazard and is working on a bolt on steering stop.
April 1, I formed the brake lines. I first used a piece of metal rod (coat hanger/welding rod) cut to the same length as the line and then bent it to fit. You can use a brake bending tool or a socket as a form. However you decide to run your lines, just make sure the line is somewhat protected by the axles from the possibility of being hit or caught by road debris or crushed by any chassis movement. Take your time and plan your bends using the brake line bender or form so as to prevent any line kinks. Kinks are bad and if you kink the line you will probably have to replace it. A time saver here is that the left and right sides are mirror images of each other. On the rear axle, the lower line clamp pan head screws will have to be shortened slightly of use 3 small washers to shim the screws as the screw will hit the axle inside the housing before seating the clamps.
April 4, Picked up the parts from the powder coater. Installed the brake master cylinder, plinth plate and pedal pivots to the chassis. Upon installing the battery box I found the tab on the steering tube interfering with the battery box. After contacting Steve Babcock at MW's, he said that due to a change this bracket will not be used and can be cut off. I cut mine off and there is plenty of clearance with the battery box. I removed the front spring in order to lower the body chassis low enough to slide the battery box around the steering tube and set it on the framework. Then I bent the remaining brake lines for the master cylinder. My brake line that ran through the chassis would just touch the frame where it ran to the master cylinder, so I split a rubber hose and fit it over the brake line, this will prevent a future rattle later on.
Since I plan to have brake lights I made up a hydraulic stop light switch. I used a switch Napa #SL134, a 3/16 brake line (metric bubble flare like our other lines) Napa #813-1260, a 3/16 tube nut, and a 3/16 tube to 1/8 pipe adapter, also at your parts house. I cut off one end and installed the 3/16 tube nut and double flared the end. I bent the line as shown and assembled it, then installed it on the bottom opening of the master cylinder where the blanking plug would have been installed. I glued the o-rings together with Super Glue (as described for the water tank cap) and installed the Master Cylinder Reservoirs.
I use Gorilla Glue to glue the brake lining to the brake band. Clamps are a necessity here as this glue has a tendency to expand, very strong and permanent.
April 8, Installed the differential brake band as per instructions. I won't be installing brake fluid in the system until we have the springs permanently installed, just in case any lines have to be undone for the spring installation.
I really enjoyed this kit as there was a lot to do and I feel we are past the halfway point. Besides what I described above, I found the kit directions to be improving, the pictures that were provided were helpful. The machining is simply a work of art. There is a possible problem with the brake pedal being struck by the front spring upon compression, but since the springs are something that is being addressed, this may be rectified at that time. Other than the 2 questions I asked of MW's I am quite pleased with the quality of our kits, and feel confident that MW's is committed to providing a top shelf product.
As you can see from the pictures, the Likamobile is forming up quite nicely and I'm quite proud of my build.
So as I sit back to admire my work, I open a beer, not just any beer, we now can only drink Guinness Stout as we have earned it.
I can hear Kit 9 calling me, so I guess I have to start it soon, so many parts, so much fun.
Brake Pad Mod
You will notice that the brake pads are taller than the brake disc. For brake efficiency and prevent future brake fade as the pads wear around the disc, I cut the brake material down to the height of the disc.
With a marker pen I drew a line on the pads tracing along the disc. Remove the pads from the calipers. A particle mask is recommended at this point. Using a hand saw I cut a groove through the material to the steel pad base, where marked and then I cut the pad material flush with the steel pad base to the cut previously made, to remove the material not needed. Using 100 grit sand paper I then contoured the end of the pad material to match the curve of the disc, and chamfer the edges from the cut. I painted the steel pad base to prevent rust.
Click here for almost complete picture
Brake Pad Mod
Update 2010: Modelworks are now Steam Traction World their website can be found HERE
Go to page:
Kit One and Two.
Kit Three and Four.
Kit Four B and Five.
Kit Six and Eight.
Addendum Kit Ten.
Kit Seventeen and Eighteen.
Leaf Spring Modification.
Brake Pedal, Brake Line, and Throttle Pedal Installation
Fuel Line Pickup Modification.
Super Heater, Hand Pump, and Plumbing.
Some Final Assembly and First Time Steam Up.
Road Test and a few Modifications.
Locomobile Cylinder Drains July 2009.