Hi I'm about to tackle the building of :- vaporising tube, burner forks, "hot dog" etc. for my E2 10 hp Baker type burner. Would anybody have dimensions? height above pilot burner etc.? Material stainless? Any advice would be a great help (I do not have any to look at or copy)

Jeff
I do not like a Baker burner per say. I do like a drilled burner. Your E2 would have had a deep V type slotted burner in cast iron. They all crack see attached photo.
I cast my 18 inch burner in ductile iron with flat bars for a drilled burner only I cast it deeper to increase the air tubes to 1-1/2 inches.
Your engine should have a 48 tooth gear. You should be able to hold 50 MPH at 750 engine RPM
With my EX and 1906 engine and burner I can hold 50 at 1200 RPM and not loose boiler pressure.
Not very good on the nerves. 35 is much more reasonable on a tour.
Rolly

Hi Rolly thank you very much for the reply, The burner I have that came with the car in a box is a new casting I beleive from Alan Kelso? It is flat through the slotted sections and only shallow in the"v" do you know if this type has the same problems? I felt exsited with your comments with the expected speed!! I am very much looking forward to getting steam up! i will have a look tommorow to see if it has the 48 tooth gear,
I am finding my feet a little on this car having not had any experience with Stanley s before so I took a big step buying this E2 a couple of years ago as a rolling body with quite a lot of parts loose or in box's, I have very much enjoyed working and building the car so far, the burner forks are the next step as I have worked from the tanks forwards!
Any help is always appreciated Jeff B.

Jeff
The original car/burner did not have branch forks and burned straight gasoline.
I run 120Lb fuel pressure on the main burner and use a Watts pressure reducing regulator for the pilot at 30 PSI using gasoline.
If I remember correctly the E2 the burner is in back of the tie rod. You should be able to make the burner pan a little deeper to keep the vaporizer higher off the main burner. An extra inch or one and a half would help. See attached vaporizer tubes these are made from 4130 heavy wall tube sizes as close to 1/8 IPS.
Rolly

beautiful work, as always, Rolly. Do you insert this entire assembly from the front, and finish up with the rear plate against the inside wall of the burner pan?

Yes the unit goes in from the front and the three tunes are brazed together the entire length.
On the back the tube are spread enough to get three street tees on these are drilled out enough to have the three cables pass through. The brass caps are drilled so when removed the cables can be pulled.
The burner tips are tig welded on.
Rolly
See attached.




Edited 1 times. Last edit at 03/17/16 06:05PM by Rolly.

Re posting

Yes the unit goes in from the front and the three tunes are brazed together the entire length.
On the back the tube are spread enough to get three street tees on these are drilled out enough to have the three cables pass through. The brass caps are drilled so when removed the cables can be pulled.
The burner tips are tig welded on.
Rolly
See attached.

Yes the unit goes in from the front and the three tunes are brazed together the entire length.
On the back the tube are spread enough to get three street tees on these are drilled out enough to have the three cables pass through. The brass caps are drilled so when removed the cables can be pulled.
The burner tips are tig welded on.
Rolly
See attached.

I like those long caps that expose lots of cable for grabbing. I like it so much that I may try to simulate it on the EX that I'm helping with, by replacing the single female NPT-to-flare fitting with a hex coupling and a male NPT-to-flare fitting. Then make new longer cables. The ones that are in the car now are short enough that they could end up all the way in the vaporizer and not be grabbable at all.

Kelly
hear is another photo of one I did on a small burner.
Rolly
If I remember correctly I welded grade five ¼-20 threaded ends to the cable as well.