Just starting to test my Stanley 740 and I am having a little problem with the water level in the boiler.
The water level automatic is indicating 1" above the mid level when the boiler is filled with water in the cold state (seems right to me). It allows water to bypass with the blowdown operating until it is sizzling hot and then shuts off the water bypass to the tank (seems OK to me). Both the water automatic and the bypass valve allow water to be pumped into the boiler and the check valve goes cold proving its pumping into the boiler (Sounds fine to me).
Now take the car for a drive and the water level is not replenished but drops so that the water level indicator reads low.
The pipe between the check valve and water pump has become very hot, so it would seem that the check valve is leaking. But tested cold under air it is air tight.
So what is happening ?
The pipe between the check valve and bottom of the hand bypass valve gets very hot, so the check valve must leak when hot.
Can anyone point me in the direction of a new check valve ? or comment on my thought to insert an additional check valve at the bottom of the hand bypass valve so when water is pumping into the boiler ie: bypass shut or water automatic activated ie: shut the water has no option but to head for the boiler.
Any advice desperately sought.

Regards
Ian V

Hi Ian,
On all my cars I always put an extra gauge between the pumps and boiler check valve, this gauge reads whenever the pumps are working, if you fit one you will need a restrictor (needle valve) to stop wild fluctuations, if one pump is working you will see the pulses, if both are OK the gauge will rise steadily to the boiler pressure at that time.
Running around a field will not keep the boiler water up, as the pumps are just not going fast enough, which is why steam cars always get into trouble on a rally field, and why most club members do not like attending such events.

Regards Jeff