Hi all,
We're having a bit of trouble with the maddison kipp oiler on the 740, we increased the stroke and it pumps when turning the wheel when cold and the hand primer works but it doesn't work when going along the road. The oil appears to be it's normal colour when hot, so I don't think waters getting in. Any ideas? Thanks George.

On the 740, you should have a lubrication gauge instead of a winker like the earlier model 735 had. While traveling, the gauge will only show oil being pumped by it's needle when the oil has to compete with steam pressure in the steam supply line to the engine. Coasting along there won't be any indication of lubrication by the needle. Pull a hill and the lubrication gauge should show lubrication in progress. A winker gauge works about the same for winking, but without steam pressure in the engine's steam supply line, the winker should show a solid black indicating oil passing while coasting along..

Hi George,

Yes, I had a similar problem with my 740. The dash oil gauge is simply a pressure gauge in the oil line, so it only registers line pressure - when the lubricator is pumping into positive steam pressure (throttle open) you get a reading, but only for the delivery phase of the pumps rotation. The needle appears to 'twitch' upwards when pumping and then falls back a bit while the lubricator piston takes another gulp of oil.

With mine, the oil delivery was pitiful even with the adjuster at max oil flow; as my engine was pretty much all new, I wasn't too happy. So I decided to make a new lubricator lever arm which was shorter by 40%, and make an extension driver arm (from the water pump plunger boss). This has substantially increased oil flow and I can now adjust it downwards on the lubricator adjuster. I'm happy to over oil the engine as, like you, I don't use the condensate.

On my 740, the oil was delivered to a boss on the steam loop. I didn't like this either as I feel that by the time it gets to the engine it has started to break down with the action of the heat and doesn't do it's job properly. The oil in the exhaust had a black treacle appearance and actually smelled burnt. I've now moved the delivery point to a boss on the steam elbow into the steam chest - much better.

If you move the delivery point like I have, you must to have a flexible section. Make sure that you have the oil check valve attached rigidly to the cars chassis, and NOT to the engine end. The reason is that if the flexible section breaks, you will immediately be alerted to the sound of escaping steam; but if you have the check at the engine end, you could go several miles without oil before you notice...

Good luck, as always,

Mark

I can second Mark's comment. I set up my oil delivery the same, as my box lubricator exit point is within a few inches of the steam chest. The line between was done in copper with typical flared ends. The relative motion of the engine caused the copper line to break off clean at the flare, leaving a little circle which is now on my key ring. Open the throttle, hear much steam escaping, car doesn't move much.

Failing to heed the advice to use steel brake line, I made up another copper line with some loops to decelerate the oscillation stress. Break at flare, etc. Failing to heed, etc. There are now many loops and it has lasted quite a while.

Mark's flexible section is better.

Thanks guys, it somehow started working when we opened the throttle wider! George.